The perils of flouting convention

I felt grouchy the day we went to Co., Jim Sullivan’s renowned pizza restaurant on the West Side of Manhattan. In retrospect, I suppose that I was predisposed to be skeptical about Co. I’d heard raves about the Popeye (spinach and gruyère) and the meatball pies, about the oven and the crusts that were […]

Tragedy of the cornicione

Lombardi char

I can’t top Luke’s tour de force account of last night’s CUNY Pie debut. But I do have some pointed commentary on a subject that is dear to my heart – the cornicione – which is prompted by the trip to Lombardi’s.

I am not a particularly sentimental man, but […]

Two Larges at Lombardi’s

Imagine a tall man, a shock of blonde hair swept across his head, marching a large pie from one of the best joints in the Bronx across 20 or so blocks, destined for a park bench where he can munch while listening to opera. Or, a young Latvian immigrant, recently arrived in Southern California, listening […]